| Cooking, Mexican. |
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Summary
Summary
Southern fare with a Mexican flair, by the chef/co-owner of the restaurant empire that Bon Appétit called a "Top American Restaurant"
USA Today called Taqueria del Sol "a runaway success." Bon Appétit wrote: "Move over, Chipotle!" The fast-casual food of Eddie Hernandez, the James Beard-nominated chef/co-owner of the restaurant, lands on the commonalities of Southern and Mexican food, with dishes like Memphis barbecue pork tacos, chicken pot pie served in a "bowl" of a puffed tortilla, turnip greens in "pot likker" spiked with chiles, or the "Eddie Palmer," sweet tea with a jab of tequila. Eddie never hesitates to break with purists to make food taste better, adding sugar to creamy grits to balance the jalapeños, or substituting tomatillos in fried green tomatoes for a more delicate texture. Throughout, "Eddie's Way" sidebars show how to make each dish even more special.
Reviews: (3)
Publisher's Weekly Review
In his first cookbook, Hernandez, executive chef of the Taqueria del Sol restaurants, delivers a fun and adventurous mash-up of his influences-he was born in Mexico, raised in the American South, and developed a love of New Orleans cuisine. The common denominator here is heat, especially in the form of various peppers. For breakfast, there is a spicy Cajun hash with andouille sausage. For a hearty soup, there is posole, in which pounds of pork butt and four cups of hominy are flavored with the puree of 30 dried chiles. For dessert-ancho-chile pralines. Hernandez enjoys teasing a bland food with a spicy kick, thus presenting meatloaf with tomato-habanero gravy, mac and cheese with feta and jalapeños, and buttermilk fried chicken with green-chile-horseradish sauce. But tacos are the soul of the book, and these are simple yet complex, with 20 different varieties. There are Americanized versions such as the cheeseburger taco, as well as traditional carnitas tacos and regionalized offerings such as a Nashville hot chicken taco. Puckett, the former food editor of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, renders Hernandez's stories in tight, captivating prose, and photographer Mosier showcases, for example, a small island of creamy grits surrounded by pink shrimp in a bowl of tomato and jalapeño puree. This is an outstanding cookbook of innovative recipes. (Apr.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
Booklist Review
Tex-Mex has a long-standing presence on the American food scene, but it took a special chef to cross Mexican and traditional southern cooking and generate a new American hybrid. Hernandez, a renegade rocker, eventually landed in Atlanta and proceeded to transform a mediocre Tex-Mex restaurant into an amalgam of Mexican and southern foods. His reputation among southerners seems to have started with his unique take on turnip greens, which gain a hefty bite from plenty of hot pepper. Cleverly named versions of southern dishes may provoke a smile: hoppin' Juan, sloppy José tacos, Waco tacos. Some southern and Mexican staples are in fact virtually interchangeable, whether it's cracklings and chicharróns or bacon fat and lard. Many of Hernandez's inventions simply add some fresh chopped jalapeños to a southern standard, such as his shrimp and grits or his slightly spicier version of the ubiquitous southern pimento cheese.--Knoblauch, Mark Copyright 2018 Booklist
Library Journal Review
Hernandez is the executive chef of Taqueria del Sol, an Atlanta-based restaurant chain with locations in Georgia and Tennessee. Writing with author and editor Puckett (Eat Drink Delta), he shares more than 125 recipes that highlight the similarities between Southern and Mexican cuisine. As with Asha Gomez's My Two Souths, which gave Southern dishes a South Indian twist, this cookbook features innovative foods and surprising flavor combinations. Readers will have no trouble whipping up recipes such as Fritos chilaquiles, Creole red beans and rice burritos, tequila-mango smoothie, and sweet potato cheesecake, which are written for home kitchens and rely on readily available ingredients. VERDICT A stellar debut imbued with Hernandez's infectious excitement for cooking. © Copyright 2018. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.