Formatted Contents Note: |
Historical milestones and important dress codes -- Introduction -- Part one: Status symbols -- Chapter one: Encoding status. Concerning the excessive display of trunk hose, crowns, ruffled collars, velvet, and crimson silk -- Chapter two: Self-fashioning. Regarding togas, gowns, robes, and tailored clothing -- Chapter three: Signs of faith. On the matter of dresses with indulgently long trains, earrings and other vanities, and on the habits of women religious--inspired by Christian Dior -- Chapter four: Sex symbols. On the subject of plate armor and associated undergarments, masks, and costumes -- Part two: From opulence to elegance -- Chapter five: The great masculine renunciation. On the frock coat, tartan and kilt, civilian uniforms, and powdered wigs, both large and modest -- Chapter six: Style and status. The importance of the well-dressed man's basic black suit and the elegant woman's eight daily toilettes; the prevalence of silk and velvet waistcoats and the art of the perfectly tied cravat -- Chapter seven: Sex and simplicity. The merits of tailored coats, whaleboned corsets, full skirts and petticoats, and neoclassical gowns -- Chapter eight: The "rational dress" movement. The inconveniences of bloomers, tight-laced corsets, starched collared shirts, and suits with short trousers -- Chapter nine: Flapper feminism. The scandal of drop-waisted shifts, bobbed hair, Cupid's bow lips, dancing flats, Bakelite earrings, and the Symington side lacer -- Part three: Power dressing -- Chapter ten: Slaves to fashion? The allure and danger of dressing above one's condition in pumps with silver buckles, a hat cocked in the Macaroni fashion, or a Jack Johnson plaid suit-- Chapter eleven: From rags to resistance. Seen on the scene: Zoot suits, cotillion gowns, pressed hair, and Sunday best; Afros and overalls, Dashikis, black turtlenecks, and black leather coats -- Chapter twelve: Sagging and subordination. Represent the race! Don't wear sagging pants, gang colors, hoodie sweatshirts, or decorative orthodontic devices (aka Grillz) -- Part four: Politics and personality -- Chapter thirteen: How to dress like a woman. Your personal best: teased, curled, or styled hair, lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, blush, bunny ears and satin maillot, high heels. Overdoing it: bared clavicles, yoga pants, miniskirts, "smart" jeans. In re. ladies in the law: skirts, nylons, makeup, nothing low-cut, a feminized morning suit -- Chapter fourteen: Recoding gender. Clothing not belonging to your sex: prom night tuxedoes, blue (or pink) for boys, pink (or blue) for girls, miniskirts, tutus, and tailored suits -- Chapter fifteen: Piercing the veil. Outlawed as indecent or condemned as sacrilegious: headscarves, Burkas, burkinis, bikinis, sexy Sheitels, hip Hijabs, and Covergirl makeup -- Part five: Retailored expectations -- Chapter sixteen: Merit badges. Appropriate for the workplace: Red-soled Louboutins, a 21 Club tie, a blue blazer, the preppy look, red sneakers, a Patagonia vest, a gray or black t-shirt. Inappropriate; designer dresses, high heels, suits -- Chapter seventeen: Artifice and appropriation. Outfits for cultural tourism: bleached blonde hair, dreadlocks, hoop earrings, a Cheongsam, a pink polo, an abacost, European luxury tailoring -- Conclusion : Decoding dress codes -- Epilogue : Dress codes stripped bare. |